[ This article was first published in the May, 2007, issue of
Larry’s Final Cut Pro Newsletter. Click here to subscribe. ]
There are three questions I get asked all the time:
The first two are already covered in articles in my library (Click the question to read related article.) However, this last one I haven’t really addressed. So, here is a quick checklist you can use to solve a dropped frame problem.
In general, dropped frame issues are caused by a hard disk that is too slow to keep up with the video format you are using.
Here’s an article that provides an overview of hard disk speeds compared to video data rates.
NOTE: By the way, if terms like RAID 0 or RAID 1 confuse you, read this short explanation of how RAIDS are defined.
System Setup Issues
Operational Fixes
Herb Issacs writes:
Why do you say not to use an internal disk to capture? Isn’t the internal bus faster than firewire input?
This was amplified by comments from Trent Anderson:
I frequently get dropped frames, and the error message at the bottom in red says, RT Extreme has determined that your hard drive is too slow, please increase the speed of the hard drive. Well, it is 7200 RPM, and I don’t see how I can get a faster one.
I notice that you said to not save to an INTERNAL hard drive. It would seem to me that having those things set to an External hard drive, via Firewire, would be even slower than going to an internal hd.???
And from Ben Balser:
Reading the newsletter, and in avoiding dropped frames you say, “2. Don’t use an internal drive to capture media.” Why not? It’s the most efficient and best method to capture without dropped frames. I don’t understand why you mention this. There must be something I’m not aware of.
Larry replies: Herb, Trent and Ben – thanks for pointing this out. I stated this poorly. What I meant is not to capture to your internal boot disk because it doesn’t have the ability to service the operating system, all running applications and still feed media reliably over time. It isn’t an issue of bus speed, it’s an issue of contention, rotation speed, and priorities. Complicating matters is that most laptops spin their hard disks slowly to save battery life.
An internal, second drive is perfectly acceptable.
UPDATE – Dec. 2007
I’ve recently learned that the Canon XL-1, and perhaps other Canon cameras, must not be directly connected to a FireWire drive. The chip set the camera uses does not communicate properly with the drive, causing dropped frame errors. This is a Canon problem, not a hard disk problem.
The only known solution is to add a PCI-based FireWire card to provide a second FireWire bus (if you have a tower) or to capture to the internal drive of the computer (if you have an iMac or laptop), then copy the files after capture to your media drive. It is never a good idea to edit video files stored on your boot drive.
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26 Responses to Solving Dropped Frame Errors
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Katlyn Moody says:
March 9, 2017 at 8:56 pm
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Larry says:
March 9, 2017 at 11:51 pm
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Amy says:
August 16, 2017 at 6:48 pm
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Larry says:
August 16, 2017 at 6:50 pm
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Amy says:
August 17, 2017 at 12:53 pm
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Keith Holmes says:
September 29, 2017 at 11:26 am
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Larry says:
September 29, 2017 at 12:00 pm
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Keith Holmes says:
September 29, 2017 at 4:07 pm
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Don L. Patterson says:
February 12, 2018 at 5:14 pm
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Larry says:
February 12, 2018 at 6:22 pm
← Older Comments Newer Comments →I know this was literally forever ago but i am about to scream and your thing seems to work but I don’t know what you mean by sequence, settings… I’ve looked all over the place.
Katlyn:
This article was written for Final Cut Pro 6, or maybe 5. I wrote it ten years ago. In that version, Final Cut called projects “sequences.” FCP X does not have sequence settings.
Here’s a better article for trouble-shooting with FCP X:
http://larryjordan.com/five-step-trouble-shoot/
Larry
Hi Larry,
I’ve hit a wall but have found your website! I am getting dropped frames to the point that I can’t playback, let alone edit (all background rendering is complete). I have a 2014 MacBook, using an external USB 3.0 HDD.
What hard drive do you recommend?
Thanks!
Amy:
You don’t mention what software you are using to edit – however, you are correct, a USB 3.0 drive is WAY too slow for editing.
Anything connecting via Thunderbolt or USB 3.1 Gen 2 would be fast enough; unless you are editing resolutions greater than 4K or RAW images, in which case you’ll need at least a two-drive RAID.
Larry
Thanks Larry!
Apologies. I am using FCPX. I’m also editing 4K video.
I’ll look into your suggestions. Thanks again for your help.
Ok what’s the quickest way of removing black frames in FCPX post in in a movie because the streaming computer couldn’t keep up?
Keith:
Sadly, there’s no automatic way to remove single frames. You’ll need to do so manually.
Larry
Thanks Larry. That’s what I guessed. Using FCPX flow transition is working well but it took me two hours to do 5 minutes and then go back and fix the audio to make the flow jumps not audible. That’s 48 hours of solid editing ahead. Thanks for coming back to me – I appreciate it.
I have a 2 hour documentary completely edited on a Macrosystem S6000 unit (PC based). Everything is done and looks great (audio and image on all formats of 1080 30p, 1080 60i, etc.) on the Macrosystem unit (and when authored and replicated to BluRay). The goal was to use an inexpensive Sony HDR-PJ790 (a tiny camera under $1200.00), using 5 or more LED light boxes, quality Samson wireless mics., teleprompters, sliders, etc. striving to get that ‘Hollywood’ production look (with live action and interviews)… the goal was proving “that if you know what you are doing in front and behind the camera, you can make a great project without buying a RED or a Sony PXW-FS7. Now have to convert to ProRes 422 HQ for TVODs. Bought the newest 5K Retina iMac (Version 10.13.3, 3.8 GHz, 40 GB 2400 MHz DDR4, Radeon Pro 580 8 GB with Fusion 2 TB) loaded with licensed FCPX 10.4, Compressor 4.4 and Motion 5.4 (also packages for photo work). Not bragging, merely explaining what I am using… I followed the opening advice from Tom Wolsky on set-up of iMac/FCPX for maximizing iMac. Now the questions. What is the best way to transfer HD footage from Macrosystem editing unit? I have been doing it with a thumb drive 3.1 in piecemeal 2 – 4 minute format of uncompressed HD, converting to ProRes 422 HQ using Compressor and placing on FCPX timeline in order of sequence. While watching on small screen in the edit mode, I never get notified of dropped frames, I do when watching on full screen (5K). If I do the whole doc in this fashion and export to an SSD external HD… will I have dropped frames? Am I experiencing dropped frames because the iMac is trying to put up the large ProRes 422 HQ onto a 5K screen? Is there a way I can streamline the transfer from editing deck to iMac (avoiding thumb drives)? What is the best SSD HD to transfer finished ProRes 422 HQ codec onto? I am not well versed in using FCP, but I am learning quickly. I have been editing for over 20 years on Macrosystem NLEs, so editing IS NOT the problem. Getting a perfect ProRes 422 HQ onto the SSD is. Any suggestions would be very welcomed.
Don:
Why not just output your entire movie from the Macrovision at the highest quality, then attach a drive to your PC, formatted as EXFAT – which supports file sizes larger than 2 GB, copy the file to the external hard drive, then attach the drive to the Mac (which reads EXFAT disks) and use Compressor to convert to ProRes 422 HQ?
Save all the thumb drives and make your live MUCH easier.
Larry